Makgadikgadi Round Trip Blog
11-16 July 2024
Our journey through the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans was an extraordinary adventure, filled with wildlife encounters, stunning vistas, and the unique bonds formed under Botswana’s vast, star-filled skies. Here’s a reflection on our incredible experience.
Day 1 11 July 2024
Meet at Khama Rhino Sanctuary near Serowe. Camp at Khama Rhino Sanctuary campsite. The morning of 11 July 2024 was bitingly cold, but our excitement fueled us as we left Gaborone for the Khama Rhino Sanctuary. It was a four-hour drive, and the winter chill only heightened the sense of adventure.
We made our first stop in Mahalapye, meeting more group members who had crossed into Botswana via the Stockpoort border post. Over warm roadside coffee, we quickly got acquainted. With our spirits bolstered, we continued to Palapye, where the last of our group joined us. It was essential to stock up on supplies here or in Serule, as these were the last decent towns before venturing into the wild.
Our first night together was spent around a cozy Mopani wood campfire, where we went over safety briefings and got to know each other better.
Day 2 12 July 2024
Self- driving in and exploring Khama Rhino Sanctuary.
The next morning, greeted us with an icy breeze, and coffee was our first priority. We left the campsite at 6:30 AM, hoping to spot rhinos at the Malema Pan. The cold seemed to keep the animals at bay, so we drove around for a couple of hours before stopping to warm up with more coffee. As the sun rose higher, we finally saw zebras, impala, and wildebeest at a watering hole.
Despite searching all day, we didn't spot any rhinos until late afternoon. Around 16:45, on our way back to the Malema Pan, we finally saw a massive white rhino bull grazing peacefully. As we followed him, we were blessed with the rare sight of a black rhino, a highly endangered and elusive creature. It was an incredible moment as the sun set, painting the sky in hues of orange and gold.
We ended the day with laughter and shared stories around the campfire, feeling grateful for the incredible sights and the camaraderie we had found.
Day 3 13 July 2024
Travel to Kubu Island. Camp at Kubu Island under starry skies.
On the third morning, we awoke to a brisk 6 degrees Celsius, the winter chill starting to ease. After savoring our morning coffee and packing up camp, we hooked up our trailers and set off at 7 AM, leaving Khama Rhino Sanctuary behind us. The tar road stretched endlessly ahead, inviting us to discover its secrets.
By the time we reached Moshoro, we found our first detour—a secret gravel road that shaved 150 kilometers off our journey, turning a 450+ kilometer trek into a manageable 300 kilometers. This hidden route promised to save us valuable time on the road.
After nine hours of driving, we finally arrived at Khubu Island at 4:45 PM. The sight of the ancient baobab trees standing sentinel over the salt pans was a welcome greeting. We wandered around, scouting for the perfect camping spot beside a massive, solitary baobab tree.
Though the drive had been long and dusty, the reward was a breathtaking night under a canopy of stars. Exhausted but content, we gathered around a cozy campfire, sharing stories and soaking in the beauty of our surroundings
Day 4 14 July 2024 Travel to Elephant Sands and spend the evening with Africa's Giants.
Day four of our Makgadikgadi adventure greeted us with the sweet melodies of birds singing under the shade of a massive baobab tree at our campsite. Even though we reluctantly packed up our gear, knowing we had a tough day of driving ahead, there was something about Khubu Island that held us spellbound. Its vastness and overwhelming solitude tugs at the heartstrings of any adventurer.
With fond farewells to Khubu and its majestic baobabs, we set off along the western banks of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, heading north towards the village of Nata. Our destination for the night was Elephant Sands—a magical stopover featuring a swimming pool and a restaurant beside a massive watering hole, a haven for passing elephants seeking a drink.
After a hearty dinner at the restaurant, we settled in with cold beers, watching the majestic elephants splash and play in the water. It was another unforgettable night under the vast, starry African sky.
Day 5 15 July 2024
Travel to Kukonje Island (Ancient Pebble Beach) for an unforgettable evening in one of Botswana's most secluded camping spots.
Day five began with a knot of nervous anticipation in my stomach. Even though I have many years of experience, driving on and around the salt pans the thought of navigating the treacherous mud of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans with our convoy of massive land cruisers and camping trailers was daunting. Yet, the allure of our final destination—an ancient pebble beach on the eastern side of the pans, renowned for its stunning stargazing, kept me motivated.
After breakfast, we celebrated a group member's birthday with cheerful happy birthday song, then we were back on the road again. With only a 180-kilometer drive ahead, and our first stop was Nata village to refuel. This would be our last chance to fill up for the next 48 hours. The drive along the eastern banks of the pans was breathtaking, with the snow-white landscape compared to the western banks.
As we veered off the tar roads, following remnants of old cutline routes, the real adventure began. The weight of our vehicles and heavy trailers caused the thin crust of salt to break, revealing the treacherous mud beneath. It was a nerve-wracking journey, but we pressed on, finally reaching our campsite at 4:45 PM.
Exhausted but exhilarated, we set up camp under what I knew would be one of the most beautiful starry skies in Botswana. As darkness fell, we gathered around the campfire, sharing laughter, stories, and a feast of BBQ meat and homemade bread I started making as soon as we got to our campsite.
Day 6 16 July 2024
Depart for home at your leisure from Kukonje Island.
Day six, the final leg of our six-day tour, dawned with a profound sense of accomplishment and awe at the beauty we'd witnessed. As we packed up and headed back to Serule, our two-way radios buzzed with chatter, sharing the highs and lows of our unforgettable journey around the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans.
Closing.
To all the eager travelers and adventure seekers out there, I extend an invitation to me on the next expedition around the Great Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Come experience the breathtaking landscapes, thrilling adventures, and the camaraderie of fellow explorers. Together, let's create memories that will last a lifetime under the vast, starry skies of Botswana. Where strangers become friends.
